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Gull on guard! Overlooking Woolacombe beach in North Devon. |
A MINI-BREAK over the
weekend provided a dramatic change of scenery – swapping a city
environment for the coastal delights of Ilfracombe, in North Devon.
Ilfracombe is a small
resort dating back to the Iron Age. Hillsborough Hill, the site of an Iron Age
settlement, overlooks the compact, traditional harbour. The resort is rich in
history, but a recent controversy has been the gift of a statue - Verity - by
artist Damien Hirst, who lives in the area.
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Truth will out! Silhouette of the Damien Hirst sculpture in Ilfracombe. |
Verity is a 66-foot,
stainless steel and bronze statue of a naked pregnant woman holding a sword
aloft. Situated at the harbour entrance, she stands astride a pile of law books and holds an off-balance ‘scales of
justice’ behind her.
The
sculpture, on a 20-year loan to the town, is intended as ‘an allegory for truth
and justice’ and her stance is modelled on ‘Little Dancer of Fourteen Years’
(c. 1881) by Edgar Degas.
What raised more than
a few eyebrows when it was first installed is that half the statue reveals the
internal anatomy of the woman, with the unborn baby clearly visible.
Unsurprisingly, it
provoked heated reactions, ranging from ‘wonderful,’ ‘beautiful’
and ‘What’s not to like?’ to ‘obscene,’ ‘offensive,’ ‘disgusting’ and ‘makes me
sick!’ Nothing like a bit of Damien Hirst to get the crowd going!
If anything, I found
it quite ‘cartoony’- but certainly dramatic. And despite the initial hostile
reaction from some quarters, it didn’t put relaxed holidaymakers off their
chips or ice cream. In fact, it now seems to have become 'part of the scene' and a popular focal point – and will undoubtedly
feature in thousands of holiday snapshots.
The nearby resort of Woolacombe was a real gem. Three miles of beautiful, family-friendly sands, with gentle sloping beach, where even little
kids can splash about safely in the
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Scales of Justice: Detail on the Verity statute. |
If I’m honest, my
walking was more ‘lazy mooching around’ than ‘pounding the pavements,’ but it’s
good to vary your pace now and again!
A quick visit to
friends who run a smallholding – and a bit more walking around apple trees and
pig pens - in the rolling Devon countryside rounded off a satisfying few days.
Back home in
Coventry, my regular off-road routes have become overgrown, and the predominant
colours of white and yellow flowers in May and June have been replaced largely by
pale purple and pink.
So even on familiar
routes, the scenery is ever-changing!
For the record, I
stayed with my wife at Wildercombe House, a former 19th-century
‘gentleman’s residence’ nestled on the hillside slopes overlooking Ilfracombe.
It’s now a family-run guest house owned by Barry and Anne-Marie Marsh. Very
relaxed, friendly – and absolutely spotless!
I feel some more
walking in Ilfracombe coming on!
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Elegant residence: Wildercombe House, a friendly family-run guest house in Ilfracombe. |
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Relaxed outlook. Overlooking the beautiful, family-friendly beach at Woolacombe. |
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Gull watch: but don't be fooled - they're only after your chips. |
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No head for heights? Beware the headless ones - they can be trouble! |
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Sunshine and colour: Traditional family fun on Woolacombe beach. |